| Building John's Westfield |
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 | January 30, 2009 - First step to curing the clutch. The three pedals have to be removed before the hacking (er, fabricating) starts. Then we start by drilling a hole for the new clutch master location using a hole saw. entry 21 |
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 | January 30, 2009 - Destudding. The top stud goes away when we cut the new hole. The stud remaining in the lower right of this picture has to be cut off flush. entry 22 |
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 | January 30, 2009 - New face. A new steel plate is TIG welded over the left front of the pedal box and a matching hole cut in it. entry 23 |
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 | January 30, 2009 - New studs. This is pretty self explanatory, we drill and tap two new holes, insert new bolts and tack weld the heads. entry 24 |
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 | January 30, 2009 - Back to problem 1. We had to make a tab to mount the factory Miata clutch switch.
(edit) These tabs didn't work out, not enough room for the steering column, so see later pics for a functional version. entry 25 |
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 | January 30, 2009 - Last part of the pedal box puzzle. The clutch lever needs a new hole drilled to line up with the new master cylinder location. entry 26 |
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 | January 30, 2009 - The final product. You can easily see the height difference (about 30mm) from the original pictures.
entry 27 |
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 | January 30, 2009 - Brake hard lines are kind of satisfying to make. These lines (unlike the fuel lines) are actually easiest to bend with your fingers. A line comes from the master cylinder to the center port on the brass T seen in the picture, wheels are fed off each side. entry 28 |
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 | January 30, 2009 - RF brake hard line. Hard lines terminate at nice welded tabs on the frame, where they meet the braided ss lines supplied with the kit. entry 29 |
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 | January 30, 2009 - Rear brake lines. As in the front, the two hard lines meet at a brass T, with the third line (note installed yet) going up the tunnel to the master cylinder. Notice the little plastic clips to securely locate the lines. entry 30 |
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 | January 30, 2009 - Another shot of a rear hard line. You can see the plastic locating clip in the center of the run. entry 31 |
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 | January 30, 2009 - Suspension! Now we're starting to get somewhere. Front upper and lower control arms shown here. A new upper balljoint is supplied with the kit, while the stock Miata lower balljoint is re-used. entry 32 |
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 | January 30, 2009 - Rear suspension. All looks black, doesn't it? All control arms are custom Westfield parts, supplied with the kit. Every hole has been perfectly located so far on the frame, all bolts and parts have fitted up with no beating or filing. entry 33 |
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 | January 30, 2009 - Overkill? Perhaps, although John will be pulling a small trailer. The FM brake kit includes 11" two piece rotors front and rear, with four piston Wilwood calipers on the front. Surprisingly, the front big brakes weigh less than the stockers, due to aluminum hats on the rotors and aluminum vs. cast iron calipers. entry 34 |
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 | January 30, 2009 - Outside shot of the front brake. Yup, that's what it is. entry 35 |
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 | January 30, 2009 - The car is starting to get heavy. We'll need the hefty boys for flipping the chassis over from now on. You can see the neat way Westfield has mounted the differential here. entry 36 |
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 | January 30, 2009 - Shock bushing. This little guy sleeves the Westfield shock bushing down to 10mm to avoid rattles. entry 37 |
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 | January 30, 2009 - More bushings. These guys press in to the lower suspension upright to sleeve down to the stud provided in the kit. entry 38 |
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 | January 30, 2009 - Diff. Differential as seen from inside the car. entry 39 |
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 | February 2, 2009 - The tunnel top plate. This piece needs some modification to fit the Miata based application. The manual calls for us to "make and fit a cover for the rectangular slot in the panel" and to cut out for the handbrake. entry 40 |
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