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499 35 Rd
Palisade, CO 81526 |
Turbo
FAQ
back to FM turbos
The new generation
Choosing a turbo kit
Pre-installation
Installation
Life with a turbo Miata
Upgrading
The new kits
Q: How much?
A:See our kit comparison charts.
1990-93
1994-97
1999-05
Q: Do the new kits make more power?
A: Here is a dyno chart of the old vs new FM II Link on a 1995. Both cars have stock internals and stock heads, with FM turbo exhausts. Boost level is 12 psi. We were able to run an extra 3 degrees of ignition timing with the new setup.
Q: Are parts of the new kits compatible with my older one?
A: The new kits are very compatible with our older Garrett-equipped kits. We offer downpipe upgrades, manifolds and intercooler kits for them.
Q: Will you be pursuing CARB certification?
A: Yes. The Voodoo kits will be run through the EO process. We do not currently have a timeframe for this.
Q: Weren't the Voodoo kits less expensive when you first announced them?
A: Yes. We upgraded the specification of the Voodoo kits to include a recirculated GFB bypass valve instead of the Mitsubishi unit. It's a better valve, but unfortunately it did raise the prices a bit.
Q: Can I buy just one or two pieces of the system to make my own kit?
A: Yes. We'll sell any of the pieces of our turbo kits separately. If you need just a manifold, or a manifold and downpipe, or even just a few of our high-quality stainless studs, we'd be happy to help out.
Choosing a turbo kit
Q: What is the difference between a Voodoo and an FM II?
A: The biggest difference is the engine managment. The FM II kits replace the stock engine computer with either a Link ECU or a Hydra Nemesis, allowing full control over boost, fuel and ignition. The new computers bring electronic boost control, knock sensing and various engine protection mechanisms. They also delete the air flow or mass air meter for a less restricted intake. This means that you can run 10-12 psi of boost safely as opposed to 8 psi for the Voodoo II.
Q: How do I choose between the Hydra and the Link?
A: Both ECUs come with full documentation and our support. They even come pre-programmed for your application. However, they're not identical.
The Link is an easier ECU to use. It comes with a programming keypad and no laptop is required. The software it runs was designed specifically for FM turbos. This makes it more user-friendly.
The Hydra is the choice of the power user. It's a bit more complicated to program and you will require a laptop. However, it does make more horsepower and has more potential.
Q: Why is there no Voodoo II for the 1990-93 cars?
A: The Voodoo Box is limited by the capability of the stock injectors. There is not enough injector capacity to run more boost. You can add an intercooler, but the boost limit will not change appreciably.
Q: How much power do they make?
A: See our kit comparison charts.
1990-93
1994-97
1999-05
Q: Do you sell the parts individually?
A: Yes, we'll sell every piece of the turbo system individually. Please contact us for details if you can't find what you want in our parts and upgrades department.
Q: What are the differences between the Mitsubishi and the GFB bypass valve?
A: Mainly construction. The mitsu valve is all plastic, the GFB unit is all metal. The latter is also adjustable.
Pre-installation
Q: I'm thinking of buying a Miata and modifying it. What year would be best?
There are good options available for all years. The 1994-97 cars have very strong engine internals. 1999 and later cars have well-designed heads that allow us to make more power and torque at the same boost level. 1990-93 cars are the most common and affordable and thus leave the most room in the budget. They also have strong internals. The biggest problem with the 1.6 is that the rear end is not always able to deal with high horsepower. Many of these parts are interchangeable so there is the potential to mix and match to make the ideal Miata. Choose your car first, we'll be able to make power with it. Give us a call for details and advice if you want help selecting a car.
Q: What do I need to do to my car before installing a turbo?
A: Your car needs to be in good mechanical shape. Problems such as
overheating, overdue maintenance and pinging will NOT be solved by doubling the
engine power! Do a compression test and a leakdown test to make sure the engine
is healthy. Perform all scheduled maintenance such as fuel filter changes. Make
sure your handling and brakes are sorted out. Before installation, run a couple
of tanks of premium fuel through the car.
Preparation checklist for FM turbo install
(supplied by Jim McBride):
- Make sure ALL maintenance is current (hoses, belts, timing belt, water pump,
brake pads, tires, etc.)
- If not new or nearly new, then new fuel filter (regardless of #1),
- synthetic oil change and new filter will happen with turbo install,
- start using premium gas now
- Install a stronger clutch if required
- Compression and leak-down tests have already been done, right?
- as "lean" a coolant mix as you can stand (flush coolant system,
see #1)
- Redline water wetter and a good water pump lube/anti-corrosive
- new 180° thermostat
- new 16 psi or greater radiator cap
- wire your fans to operate in unison (1.6 only)
- new plugs
- good plug wires
- synthetic oil in transmission and differential
- spray penetrating oil on nuts and bolts that will need to be removed
You're installing a $5-6K upgrade, now is not the time to be "cheap."
You are doubling the RWHP of the car; this puts a much greater stress level on
everything. Check over the entire car. Is your alignment good? Shocks? Springs?
Etc?
Installation
Q: Can I install this myself?
A: If you have good mechanical aptitude, the kit can be installed at home.
If you're the sort of person who stabs yourself every time you reach
for a screwdriver, it's probably not a good idea. The best way to tell
is to download the installation manual from our support section and honestly
evaluate your skills.
Q: What special tools
are needed?
A: Nothing unusual is needed. Again, check out the manuals in the support section.
Q: I've heard I have
to drill a hole in my oil pan. Is this true?
A: Yes it is. The lubricating oil from the turbo needs to return to the
oil pan, and the best way to do this is through a new fitting in the pan
itself. It's not a difficult thing to do, and we even include the drill
bit and tap!
Q: What else will
I need to do to my car?
A: A performance clutch is a necessity on the higher-power kits. The factory clutch can not hold the power our turbo cars make. If you're going to make significant power gains, you'll have to change that clutch! Turbos don't like back-pressure, so a good turbo exhaust will let the turbo spool up quicker, as well as make more top end power. We have seen a 15hp increase with the installation of our turbo exhaust system. Depending on how you use the car and which kit you purchase, you may need to improve the cooling system as well.
Life with a turbo Miata
Q: What sort of extra maintenance is needed?
A: All that is needed is regular oil changes with synthetic oil. It's a good idea to take a peek underhood on a regular basis to ensure there aren't any problems developing.
: Will a turbo wear out my engine faster?
A: At boost levels of 10-12 psi, the impact on engine longevity is minimal. We have hundreds of turbo customers running this boost level with no measurable impact on engine life. As you approach 15 psi, oil consumption will probably go up some. Running 15psi will reduce the
engine life to a few years.
Q: I have a 96 Miata (1.8L Automatic). Can this engine
and trans configuration handle a turbo? If so, at what boost and what HP at the rear wheels without destroying the trans or engine?
There are a few automatic Miatas with turbos running around and they are not having any transmission problems. You may also need to modify the downpipe slightly to clear the larger bellhousing of the automatic.
For your 1994-05 automatic car you will need to buy a Voodoo. Our FM II will not work on the 1994-05 automatic cars because the FM II replaces the factory ECU. The factory ECU operates the automatic transmission on the 1.8 and our ECU does not. 1990-93 cars can use the Link or Hydra ECUs if desired.
Upgrading
Q: Can I upgrade my Voodoo turbo to a FM II?
A: Yes. The fundamental hardware is the same - the turbo, downpipe, manifold and intercooler - so all you need to do is upgrade the engine management. When you're done, the system will be indistinquishable from an FM II.
Q: Can I upgrade my Voodoo to a Voodoo II?
A: Yes. You simply add the intercooler and adjust the boost level.
Q: Can I add a header to my turbo to make even more power?
A: The header is replaced by the turbo manifold and the downpipe, so there's no need to spend money on a header.
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