Flyin' Miata : Turbochargers : FAQ

Choosing a turbo kit
Q: What is the difference between an FM I and an FM II in a 1990-97 car?
A: The biggest difference is our FM Link ECU. This replaces the stock engine computer and allows full control over boost, fuel and ignition. The FM II also has a larger intercooler, a knock sensor, electronic boost control and air temperature sensor. It also deletes the air flow or mass air meter for a less restricted intake. This means that you can run 12-15 psi of boost safely as opposed to 8 psi for the FM I.

Q: What is the difference between an FM I and an FM II in a 1999-04 car?
A: The FM II takes the FM I setup and adds an intercooler and electronic boost control. The piggyback is pre-programmed for the FM I and the FM II includes a programming keypad. Otherwise, they use the same turbo, fuel and timing control and as many of the same intake pipes as possible. The FM I will operate at approximately 6 psi of boost while the FM II is typcially run at 9 psi on a stock engine.

Q: Can I upgrade my 1990-97 FM I to a FM II?
A: Yes. To upgrade the FM I to an FM II on a 1990-97, you can replace the AFPR and MSD with a Link ECU and bigger injectors. There's also a larger intercooler which can be added. The FM I makes an excellent starting kit for this reason. If you buy your FM I with the intent of upgrading to FM II later, we recommend ordering the FM II intercooler with your kit.

Q: Can I upgrade my 1999-04 FM I to a FM II?
A: Yes. You simply add the intercooler and boost control solenoid. It's a very easy upgrade, allowing you to add the extra parts when you are able to afford them and without having any extra bits left over. The FM II upgrade also includes a programming keypad for the Link piggyback so that you can fine-tune your settings.

Q: I've read on the internet that it takes months to get a turbo - why?
A: That used to be the case until we moved distribution in house. Now we have over half a million dollars in inventory and we can usually ship a kit within a week or two.

Q: Why is your cheapest kit so much more expensive than the GReddy?
A: Our kits are designed to be both complete and safe. We include ignition controls, high-quality piping, fuel controls and absolutely everything you need to make safe power. By the time a GReddy has been upgraded to make decent safe power, the price is often more than an FM kit. We won't sell a kit that isn't intercooled or that doesn't include acceptable engine management.

Q: What are the differences between the Mitsubishi and the sequential blowoff valve?
A: Mainly construction. The mitsu valve is all plastic, the FM unit is all metal. The FM BOV can flow more air so it is better at relieving higher boost pressures. It also has a more pleasing sound.

Q: How big are the intercoolers?
The FM intercooler measures 16"x8"x3" while the smaller FM I uses a 10"x8"x3" setup.

Pre-installation
Q: I'm thinking of buying a Miata and modifying it. What year would be best?
There are good options available for all years. The 1994-97 cars have very strong engine internals. 1999 and later cars have well-designed heads that allow us to make more power and torque at the same boost level. 1990-93 cars are the most common and affordable and thus leave the most room in the budget. They also have strong internals. The biggest problem with the 1.6 is that the rear end is not always able to deal with high horsepower. Many of these parts are interchangeable so there is the potential to mix and match to make the ideal Miata.

Q: What do I need to do to my car before installing a turbo?
A: Your car needs to be in good mechanical shape. Problems such as overheating, overdue maintenance and pinging will NOT be solved by doubling the engine power! Do a compression test and a leakdown test to make sure the engine is healthy. Perform all scheduled maintenance such as fuel filter changes. Make sure your handling and brakes are sorted out. Before installation, run a couple of tanks of premium fuel through the car.

Preparation checklist for FM turbo install (supplied by Jim McBride):
Make sure ALL maintenance is current (hoses, belts, timing belt, water pump, brake pads, tires, etc.)
If not new or nearly new, then new fuel filter (regardless of #1),
synthetic oil change and new filter will happen with turbo install,
start using premium gas now,
Compression and leak-down tests have already been done, right?
as "lean" a coolant mix as you can stand (flush coolant system, see #1)
Redline water wetter and a good water pump lube/anti-corrosive
new 180* thermostat
new 16# radiator cap
wire your fans to operate in unison (1.6 only)
new NGK plugs
new NGK plug wires
synthetic oil in transmission and differential
spray penetrating oil on nuts and bolts that will need to be removed
You're installing a $5-6K upgrade, now is not the time to be "cheap." You are doubling the RWHP of the car; this puts a much greater stress level on everything. Check over the entire car. Is your alignment good? Shocks? Springs? Etc?

Installation
Q: Can I install this myself?
A: If you have good mechanical aptitude, the kit can be installed at home. If you're the sort of person who stabs yourself every time you reach for a screwdriver, it's probably not a good idea. The best way to tell is to download the installation manual from our support section and honestly evaluate your skills.

Q: What special tools are needed?
A: Nothing unusual is needed.

Q: I've heard I have to drill a hole in my oil pan. Is this true?
A: Yes it is. The lubricating oil from the turbo needs to return to the oil pan, and the best way to do this is through a new fitting in the pan itself. It's not a difficult thing to do, and we even include the drill bit and tap!

Q: What else will I need to do to my car?
A: A performance clutch is a necessity. The factory clutch can not hold the power our turbo cars make. Turbos don't like back-pressure, so a good turbo exhaust will let the turbo spool up quicker, as well as make more top end power. We have seen a 15hp increase with the installation of our turbo exhaust system.

Life with a turbo Miata
Q: What sort of extra maintenance is needed?
A: All that is needed is regular oil changes with synthetic oil.

Q: How much power will my car make?
A: An FM I will make about 175-185 hp, and an FM II will produce about 220-245. A stock 1990 will make about 91 hp at the wheels. See our dyno runs for more specific examples.

Q: Will a turbo wear out my engine faster?
A: At boost levels of 10-12 psi, the impact on engine longevity is minimal. We have over 400 turbo customers running this boost level with no measurable impact on engine life. As you approach 15 psi, oil consumption will probably go up some. Running 15psi will reduce the engine life to a few years.

Q: I have a 96 Miata (1.8L Automatic). Can this engine and trans configuration handle a turbo? If so, at what boost and what HP at the rear wheels without destroying the trans or engine?
There are a few automatic 2001 Miatas with turbos running around and they are not having any transmission problems. You may also need to modify the downpipe slightly to clear the larger bellhousing of the automatic - we have an automatic-friendly downpipe for the 1999-04 cars. For your 1994-97 automatic car you will need to buy an FM I and run 8psi of boost. Our FM II will not work on the 1994-97 automatic cars because the FM II replaces the factory ECU with our Link ECU. The factory ECU operates the automatic transmission on the 1.8 and our ECU does not. 1999-04 turbo systems that use the piggyback Link and 1990-93 cars can use the FM II.

Upgrading
Q: Can I add a header to my turbo to make even more power?
A: The header is replaced by the turbo manifold and the downpipe, so there's no need to spend money on a header.

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